Tourbillon on women’s watches is a big thing. Of course, it is difficult to make. This is undoubted, but high-level complex functions have always been the world of men’s watches. Today, women’s watches have to be made. It is bound to involve structural strategies. But since we are talking about women’s watches, maybe we can also temporarily relax our men’s political heads and simply appreciate the beauty of these models, because no matter what abacus you play behind, as long as it is a women’s watch, this is gone. Just talk about nothing.
CHANEL Premiere Flying Tourbillon
Chanel’s high-level complication table is not much at first, this tourbillon is their first flying tourbillon, but it is quite surprising that it is actually the first flying tourbillon of APRP.
CHANEL’s actions in complex functions in recent years have been much more active than in the past. The mysterious retrograde watch of J12 in 2010 and the camellia tourbillon of Premiere in 2012 are both annual models of the year; the display of the mysterious retrograde watch The method is very special, it is taken for granted to cause the topic, although it is a Camellia Tourbillon, although it is a flying tourbillon, but in the final analysis it is just a flying tourbillon. The ecology of the year will say so for its reason), but it has also caused quite a lot of discussion in the industry. The middle reason is actually worth discussing.
Chanel has maintained a cooperative relationship with APRP for a long time. The 3125 movement specially modified for Chanel and the mysterious retrograde watch not long ago are the results of two cooperations. This flying tourbillon is also specially designed by APRP for Chanel. of. Chanel’s high-level complication table was not much at first. This tourbillon is their first flying tourbillon. However, when I read the information, I found that it was actually the first flying tourbillon of APRP. Even Giulio Papi himself was against flying tourbillons. The reason for opposing flying tourbillons is that the accuracy of the front bridge tourbillon is difficult to request without the front table; Chanel’s expected accuracy here is a day difference of -2 to +8 seconds (in fact, it is already high), but Papi they hope to reach 0 ~ + 4 seconds, which has even exceeded the observatory certification. It is no wonder that they will retain the upper watch bridge with the tourbillon removed. Only this time at the request of Chanel, Papi finally decided To ‘overcome the fear of flying the tourbillon’.
Having said that, it is really good to say what special technology APRP uses in this, there are a few important ones: First, the ball bearing is fixed between the tourbillon frame and the base, on the one hand, the flying tourbillon The structural strength of the flywheel is relatively weak, and the ball bearing can increase its strength. On the other hand, this tourbillon device is quite large and requires more torque to drive. Due to the size of the watch itself, the barrel is not The method is too big, so they can only find a way to make the tourbillon with a smaller friction coefficient and higher rotation efficiency, and ball bearings are their solution.
迁 In order to adapt to the size of the barrel, they also reduced the frequency of the balance to 21,600vph, but this will sacrifice the accuracy of Papi Nitzi, so they increased the mass inertia of the balance to 11.5mg … cm2, try to make the performance of the movement meet their required level. Strictly speaking, the technology adopted by APRP here is not too rare, but the finished product and the aesthetics (especially the aesthetics) of the finished product are quite high, and I think this is also this type without reading information and no special The main reason for the agency to get unanimous praise.
CHANEL Premiere Flying Tourbillon
18K white gold material / Manual winding movement / Hour and minute display / Tourbillon device / Body and buckle with 228 diamonds, about 7.7 carats / Silk satin strap, Folding buckle / Sapphire crystal, Screw-down bottom Cover / Reference price: NT $ 7,398,000
陀 Camellia-shaped tourbillon device
The entire tourbillon device is extremely complicated, and a small flower-shaped cover plate is stacked on the flower-shaped outer frame; the original lightweight should be a major issue for such a device, but it only uses a lighter cover plate. Of nickel, the other frames are still steel.
钻 钻 Full diamond case
The case is full of diamonds, but there is no exaggeration. The steps on the side of the Premiere series are set with two round diamonds and square diamonds. The front and side of the crown are also two different diamonds.
Tape with folding buckle
The watch uses a silk belt with a folding buckle, and a diamond is set on the buckle. There are many models with this price and a crocodile belt. This can also be optional. Incidentally, the dial of the watch is made of high-tech precision ceramics.
BVLGARI Il Giardino Tropicale Di
Bvlgari’s past women’s watch product line is either a basic model at a low price or a highly decorative jewellery watch. It emphasizes that watchmaking technology products are almost as good as this. The introduction of this tourbillon may be a reminder of the next Bulgari. The women’s watch strategy will have new developments.
We mentioned here before that BVLGARI in 2013 was the most exciting year since DR & GG was incorporated into the brand in 2010. Individual watches are certainly promising, and more importantly, the overall planning begins. It has appeared, especially the part of the female watch that shows unprecedented ambitions, such as this enamel painted tourbillon to be introduced this time, making people start looking forward to the next step of Bulgari.
This enamel-painted tourbillon is unique in many ways. First of all, it is a rare high-order complication female watch for Bulgari. According to official sources, this is the first high-order complication female watch for Bulgari. According to the author’s personal memory, I can’t think of the second one; Bulgari’s past women’s watch product line is basically sold as jewelry, not the basic models of low and medium price or highly decorative jewelry watches It is emphasized that watchmaking technology products are almost the same, let alone complicated functions. The introduction of this tourbillon may be a reminder that the Bulgari women’s watch strategy will have new developments.
The automatic tourbillon movement BVL 263 on the watch basically belongs to the Gerald Genta system in the past, but Bvlgari also has a long history of using GG movements. During this period, the movement itself also experienced many evolutions. Compared with recent products, this movement should be closest to the BVL 465 equipped with the 2009 Sotirio tourbillon perpetual calendar; of course, 465 also has a retrograde perpetual calendar mechanism, but aside from this, the automatic tourbillon part It is exactly the same. There are several obvious changes. One is that it removed the original tourbillon bridge from the front and replaced it with a transparent sapphire crystal to fix the entire device from the front to make it look like a flying tourbillon. The strength is weakened, so the back bridge is slightly thickened as a reinforcement. In addition, the decoration of the splint is much more refined than before, especially the part of the automatic plate. The round hole dug in the middle allows it to expose the tourbillon when it is placed below. It is indeed a very careful design.
On the other hand, enamel painting is also a new attempt for Bulgari; surprisingly, Bulgari has not produced any enamel painting watches, which makes this one unique in its overall positioning. The model is basically filled with colored enamel, but the interposition of diamonds is very flexible, which changes the entire faceplate; some of the techniques of painting are also quite bright, and the depth of the color between adjacent color blocks is very rich. The theme of the painting is a parrot, which is also one of the Bulgari Icons. The entire picture (even the color of the strap) is reminiscent of the print ads of their home in the past two years (especially the one by Julian Moore). Series), the aesthetic taste is quite good, even if the watch itself is a masterpiece in the recent complicated female watches.
V BVLGARI Il Giardino Tropicale Di
18K rose gold material / BVL 263 self-winding movement / hour and minute display / tourbillon device / crocodile leather strap, general buckle / sapphire crystal, screw-in transparent bottom cover
Women’s watch tourbillon
The size of this tourbillon is actually not large. The previous models introduced only a small circle on the dial, but because this is a female watch, the diameter of the watch is only 37mm, so the tourbillon has a lot of weight on the surface.
The parrot, flowers and leaves are an independent frame, which are separated from the white background below. Most of the patterns on the frame are filled with enamel. Among them are the parts of the parrot feathers. The shades in the same color are very dark. Pretty.
Point colored gems
In addition to the diamonds on the face plate, colored gemstones are still a major focus of Bulgari. The crown of the model is set with a large red tourmaline, which has become another highlight of the model; in addition, the claw shape of the crown The base itself is also beautiful.