When you stare at a watch, how does it catch your eye? Is it the vivid colors that make you see your life, the individual design makes you think that this is the style you want, or the beautiful movement makes you always unwilling to put down this watch? Maybe it’s both, maybe it’s not, and there’s often no reason to like it. In my limited career in the watch industry, the love of watches is a big part of the motivation, and this original source comes from the love of watch movements. The movement is a lonely field, and many people will find it boring, but for science and technology men, this is not a problem. Regardless of whether it is a clock or a watch, the movement is the most critical part of the inner, and then the fancy appearance and artistic decoration. Concerned, but for watchmakers, this is the basic aspiration of the profession.
I like the movement more than the appearance of the watch, not to say why. No matter how the times change, the major brands’ persistence in the movement is consistent. Perhaps from the appearance of the watch, you can see the characteristics of an era, and from the movement, you can feel the watchmaker of that era. temperature. The different preferences and aesthetics of watchmakers are reflected in the movement and form their own style, which ultimately lays down the brand’s unique style.
Qu Run’s elegant classic is such a gentleman
We always talk about the design of the watch, what style it is, and in my eyes, the movement also has its own style. When we talk about tradition and look for classics, we often pay attention to the movement, because the classic watch, although its appearance is very flavorful, but the easiest to make people’s heart beat, must be an extremely beautiful movement. Tradition is the foundation of watchmaking. One of the essences of this is manual watchmaking. Until today, many top watchmakers still believe in the value and significance of manual watchmaking. Manual watchmaking is time-consuming and labor-intensive, and therefore valuable, but it is worth the money because it is irreplaceable.
There are two main attractions of hand-made watchmaking. One is the structure of the movement and the other is polishing. The overall design refers to the arrangement of the overall structure of the movement, as well as the aesthetic expression of the details. The structure of the movement is generally of several types. Of course, I am talking about ordinary movements, and the complex functions are another matter. A conventional movement is composed of several parts: a prime mover (spring barrel), a wheel train (middle drive train), an escapement system (escape fork, escapement wheel), an oscillation system (balance spring), The last needle setting system (vertical wheel, clutch wheel, needle setting wheel, etc.). So in fact, the structure of a conventional movement is not complicated, especially without an automatic winding system. When you look at the layout of the movement, you know where it is. This has not changed much from traditional pocket watches to current watch movements. But tasteful movements will be made a little different. First, the splint will be very beautiful, the curves meander, and the straight lines are strong. The two blend with each other and are beautiful, compared to the straight movement of ordinary movements. It has its own aesthetic expression, and this is actually a gesture of the brand or watchmaker. Grinding will reflect the taste of the movement. A large amount of polishing will make the movement extremely delicate, while a large amount of sandblasting will look very industrial.
Lang & Heyne
We see that most of the famous brands have their similar movements, which are beautiful layout and fine polishing. It is especially fascinating with brands such as Patek Philippe, Phillipe Dufor, Lange, Blancpain, Lang & Heyne, Parmigiani, Vacheron Constantin, Laurent Ferrie, etc. , Undoubtedly all industry leaders, they represent the beauty of true classic watchmaking. When you get some of these brands of watches, you must not forget to look at the movement, the light brought by polishing, the layered and shiny changes of the movement presented by the unique ornamentation, the movement of the plywood, and the parts. Each of these sexy, let the movement convey the value of excellence, but also reflects the feelings of traditional watchmaking. Obviously, such a movement is worthy of careful tasting, it can be appreciated by Gu Fang, and it is worthy of being treasured.
Love to cut out is skinny and sexy
Hollow, often refers to a craft in watches, but when it becomes a style, the movement will show an extraordinary personality and sexy. Many high-end brands have skeletonized movements, but only a few brands will use it as a unique style and use it in large quantities. There are mainly two brands here, one is Roger Dubuis and the other is Richard Mill . Roger Dubuis’s early watches were not known for hollowing out. The movement is still more traditional in style except for the case. However, the frequent breakthroughs of the King’s series of high-end watches in recent years have made hollowing out Roger Dubuis. A major feature.
We often think that hollowing out is only to remove the extra parts of the movement that will not affect the movement of the movement, but in fact this is not good-looking, but it looks messy. The real high-level hollowing is the perfect fusion of the plywood and the movement. With the unique vision of the splint, it also just wraps the movement inside. Roger Dubuis’ star-shaped cutouts, combined with black plating treatment, have a very black technology feel, and a sense of interstellar science fiction, which is completely consistent with the brand’s avant-garde style. So we see that Roger Dubuis’s skeletonized movement is so harmonious, the movement quietly integrates, and the plywood structure is very tension.
Not to mention Richard Mill, it is the black technology brand in the watch itself, whatever technology is advanced, what technology is used, what materials others can not use, it uses whatever material. The movement of the Richard Mille watch has a clear skeleton, and the supporting points on the movement coincide with the staggered points on the skeleton. From the skull to almost all other watches, Richard Mille is hollow or In the semi-hollowed state, the extremely exaggerated shape is very exciting.
The hollow like Chanel is completely realized through meticulous design and calculation. It is not a simple traditional movement to be hollowed out. It needs to be completely aligned with the structure of the movement and the shape of the plywood. It has transcended the concept of traditional hollowing out. This movement is undoubtedly very sexy.
Not too fancy
If the above-mentioned high-end brands have a strong visual impact, then these brands have a strong heart under the careless appearance. In the watchmaking world, there are three brands that are considered very simple, Rolex, Omega and IWC. It should be said that the three big brothers in the luxury brand are also a watershed. The characteristics of the movements of these three brands are very obvious. Instead of taking high complexity as the direction and not master craftsmanship as standards, they rely on strong technical forces to make the movements reliable, reliable, and more reliable, while retaining the necessary Polished.
Except for Omega, with some decorative polishing, Rolex and IWC’s movements are not high in decorative polishing. Of course, functional polishing is available, and their main energy is put in the movement itself. In terms of reliability, Rolex’s patents for movements are designed to improve the performance of the movement, and achieve more accurate movements with higher efficiency and lower loss, from shock absorption, hairspring, fine adjustment, tooth profile, lubricant, and barrel. , Escapement structure, automatic winding system, etc., without letting go of any detail improvements. In addition to the necessary decorative polishing of Omega, the use of coaxial escapement, autonomous balance wheel structure, anti-magnetic materials, etc., all reflect the pragmatic side. The same is true for IWC, while continuously upgrading the woodpecker winding system with better materials and ideal structures, and also making structural upgrades to improve stability in terms of timing and long power.
The style of the movement actually reflects the basic style of the brand, and its appearance is easy to change, but the movement is the foundation on which the brand lives.