In fact, this topic is no longer a new thing. A few years ago, there were very direct discussions in various forums, but now the models on sale, even the newly launched wrist This is still the case for many watches, and many watch friends don’t know much about it, so I have limited knowledge to discuss the issue of this big watch and small core.
A watch made by a cousin himself, just for the sake of a brand, the brand is not so excessive
Big watches and small cores are not actually a phenomenon that only occurs in modern watchmaking. They have happened before, but they are not so obvious, but why are they more and more obvious now, and sometimes they are done too much? The reason is very simple. One is the change in modern aesthetics, which has caused the watch case to become larger and larger. The size of the classic men’s watch was about 35 mm. Now it is 38 mm. The classic size of women’s watches used to be 26-30 mm. Right and left, it is now 32-35 mm. In addition to the classic size, the popular men’s large size watch now has reached 42-48 mm. Another reason is that the pace of developing new movements has not kept pace with the increase in case size. As soon as these two reasons are combined, we can see that the case has become larger, but the movement has not become significantly larger, so that the size of the case greatly exceeds the size of the movement, and it has become a small watch with a large core.
So why don’t brands make the movement larger to cater for the increase in case size? The reason is also very simple. Although the brand is constantly following the trend and introducing some larger-sized watches, it is necessary for the brand to give up some of its past achievements and go all out to develop new movements to meet the larger case size. At present, Is unrealistic. We know that each brand has several main basic movements. Complex functions are often developed by these basic movements. These basic movements need to meet the needs of most of the brand’s watches, including classic sizes and large watches. Shell size. These movements have often evolved over many years and have been tested by the market. They have already become famous, but the new research and development of a movement requires a huge investment in research and development costs and time costs. This is why the models can be renewed every year, but A new basic movement, but it takes five or even ten years to complete the replacement. Once the new movement is started, it means replacing the existing production line, training employees for new production technology, conducting a large number of internal tests, and a large amount of marketing investment. This is a very risky investment, so the brand Often extremely cautious. Another reason, I think everyone also feels deeply, is that the mechanical structure of the basic movement has been formed for hundreds of years. It is not easy to design a basic movement different from the previous one.
Shell-to-core ratio is moderate
But it is worth exciting that the requirements of high-end brands for beauty are often much higher than those of ordinary watch friends. They also know that a large-sized watch is equipped with a relatively small movement inside. It is not beautiful through the bottom, so we can see that the new self-made movements now often have relatively large sizes. Vacheron Constantin re-made the vertical and horizontal series in the past two years, and applied a newly developed movement. Among them, 5100 is a basic three-pin movement with a diameter of 30.6 millimeters and 5200 is an automatic chronograph movement. FP1185-based 1137 automatic chronograph movement, with a diameter of 26.2 mm, but the new and old models, the diameter of the watch has not changed, the new movement is a full circle, the shell core ratio is more harmonious and more beautiful. Because of this, the new vertical and horizontal are transparent, while the old models are dense. Audemars Piguet is a brand that I do n’t know too much. In fact, in high-end watchmaking, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Chronograph is often considered a large watch and small core. The main model of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Chronograph is 26331. Using the Audemars Piguet 2385 automatic chronograph movement, also based on FP 1185, with a diameter of 26.2 mm and a watch diameter of 41 mm, there are several types of Audemars Piguet Royal Oak offshore chronographs with a diameter of 42 mm. There are also 44 mm, but they are all equipped with Caliber 3126/3840 movement. The diameter of the movement is 29.92 mm, and the 44 mm case will be smaller.
So where are the worst-hit areas for big watches and small cores? In fact, it is because there are few or few self-produced movements. Most of the movements use ETA or SW movement brands. In order to meet the trend of large watches, but there is no matching movement, so only general Movement to support the large case. We know that several ETA movements or SW movements that are used in the mainstream, such as 2824 and 2892, have a diameter of 25.6 mm. The same movement of the SW movement also has this size. In the 1970s, the classic watch size at that time was 36 mm, so this movement was just right, but if you use these movements in today’s 42 or 44 mm case, it will be smaller. Of course, many brands know this, so they often use a dense bottom design, so it does n’t matter if you do n’t see it. The bottom cover is engraved with some patterns, but it is more beautiful. However, in order to highlight the craftsmanship, there are still some brands that make it through the bottom design, especially the large size sports models, then you can feel its vitality.
Coordinated movement and case ratio
Of course, the above several movements are still suitable for use within a case of 42 mm, but what is really unbearable is the use of a female watch movement in a large size model It really makes some people look down. The typical representative is ETA 2671. The movement diameter is only 17.2 millimeters, but it is used in the case of more than 35 millimeters, which makes people look at it. The specific brand is inconvenient to say more. If you are lucky ‘You will be shocked when you see it.
The movement of IWC 7 is very full. After all, the clockwork space is in great demand.
However, the situation of the large watch and small core does not mean that its quality is not good. It only affects the aesthetics of the balance of the mechanical watch, a bit like a small horse-drawn cart. And those large movement watches often have a strong visual impact, such as IWC’s 7-day chain, the movement size reaches 37 mm, and its diameter is only 42 mm, which makes people look very enjoyable. Lange also has some movements, with a size of more than 30 mm, and the case diameter is only 40 mm, which seems very addictive.
Will this situation change in the future? I think this is a long-term process. The current brands are divided into two categories, one is the self-produced brand, and the other is the brand that rely on suppliers to provide movements. Brands with self-production capabilities are gradually replacing the original basic movement. New movements often take this into consideration, so the situation is improving. For brands using general-purpose movements, as long as the case size is maintained, do not continue to expand, then this problem is not prominent, but it is not recommended to continue to increase the case size. Although it is not visible as a dense bottom, it is always open time. One problem that needs to be solved urgently now is who can provide a universal large-size movement for use in a large watch case. At present, it is unlikely that the trend of watches will be reversed to reduce the size. Of course, manual movements are ETA 6497. / 6498 can be satisfied, but the automatic movement seems to be lacking.